‘Outrageously good’: the best (and worst) supermarket ready-made custard, tasted and rated

Which supermarket pots are ambrosial heaven and which are a gummy disaster?

It was only when I sat down to taste 10 custards that I realised this was a dangerous test to judge on my own. I tried a range of ready-made offerings, from cans to cartons to tubs of fresh custard from the supermarket chiller section, some of which I found hard not to drink by the pint.

I analysed each custard for aroma, texture and taste, and awarded extra points for minimal processing and the use of free-range eggs; I deducted points for the inclusion of palm oil, modified maize starches and colourings, all of which are often used to replace the colour, fat and thickening ability of eggs. It was, however, the long-life cartons that most provoked nostalgic memories of bananas and custard as a child.

My main take-home is that cans and cartons are great for when you need a quick dessert, but if you want the real thing – a proper crème anglaise made with hot, vanilla-infused cream and milk, egg yolks and sugar – go for the fresh stuff and check the label for additives.

Best overall: Waitrose No 1 Madagascan vanilla custard

An outrageously good, medium-thick, pale cream-coloured custard made with West Country milk and cream. Seductively sweet (11.9% total sugar), and thickened with tapioca starch and free-range eggs.

Best bargain: M&S Collection Madagascan vanilla luxury custard

A medium-thick, pale cream-coloured custard made with Jersey and Guernsey cows’ milk and British cream. Super-sweet (12.1%), and thickened with tapioca starch, cornflour and free-range eggs.

Ambrosia deluxe custard

Very thick, pale yellow and velvety-smooth, but a touch gloopy and lacking in substance. Egg-free, with buttermilk and vanilla extract, thickened with “sustainable” palm oil and modified starches. Contains colours (plain caramel and carotene) and pretty sweet (11.1%), too.