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The Indian chef who brought curry to America - then vanished

The Indian chef who brought curry to America - then vanished
Image caption, Ranji Smile was one of the most colourful and enigmatic figures to shape the American food scene

Omar Khayyam, Smile's Indian restaurant, opened in late 1901 at 325 Fifth Avenue. This was prime real estate, a block away from the original Waldorf-Astoria Hotel where, 29 years later, the Empire State Building would rise. Smile adorned the restaurant with Indian draperies and hanging lanterns.

As the New York Herald reported, a fleet of Indian waiters in "voluminous turbans" staffed the premises, as did a group of Indian musicians. Now quite the embodiment of the American immigrant success story, Smile eagerly awaited his customers and fans.

Alas, they never materialised. Within a year, Omar Khayyam shuttered. The New York Sun claimed that people had "tired" of Indian fare, dismissing it as a passing fad.

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