Trekking in Brazil’s Atlantic rainforests: ‘the day unfolds in a blaze of biodiversity’

Minas Gerais’ natural wonders sent Charles Darwin into ecstasies, but the area has always been dominated by mining. Now ecotourism offers a lifeline

When we come out of the bamboo forest and enter the high-altitude grassland, Marcelo begins to walk faster. All around us, dark peaks loom through the early morning clouds. The grasses and flowering mimosa bushes drip from the mist. It is hard to imagine, but this area suffered a devastating fire two years ago. Marcelo has not been back since, and he is anxious. “We have some extremely rare endemic species up here,” he says. “I hope they’ve survived.” A hummingbird zips past, heading for a banana-shaped yellow-and-red flower. “Planalto hermit,” identifies Marcelo. “The bill fits the flower.”